Upcoming Skins and Shader Maps #2

[MOTOZ293]

Diggin

Just a tip dont do a solid background like that if yoiure gonna post on the forums like this bc its super easy to rip the skin

[George891]

could really care less, made those in 20 minutes max. someone wants to rip them, feel free too.

[Kiwiboy116]

could really care less, made those in 20 minutes max. someone wants to rip them, feel free too.

sweet thanks! haha jk but looks nice bro

[DBRider251]

Diggin
[img]https://i.gyazo.com/6e3f23852ba9b51b8bf ... 44.png[img]

Just a tip dont do a solid background like that if yoiure gonna post on the forums like this bc its super easy to rip the skin

You know its just as easy to rip if the background is zebra, right...?

[MOTOZ293]

i didn't mean like a zebra background. you need a watermark or a textured background that varies in colors and blends them together. Before you try to prove me wrong try to understand what i meant

[JakeT3]

Well, just place it in the cutout mask and gone is the background...
Also, you can also easily trace the whole design so it's never rip proof. Best thing is to just take an in-game screenshot.

[sk84life933]

Based off of the 2001 KX, first real attempt in making my own plastics. Don't look at the frame too much or your eyes may fall out. All criticism welcome please

[sk84life933]

Sorry guys... Skins thread.

[aeffertz]

Sweet!

[DBRider251]

i didn't mean like a zebra background. you need a watermark or a textured background that varies in colors and blends them together. Before you try to prove me wrong try to understand what i meant

i knew what you meant, I was just using zebra as an example. Almost nothing is rip-proof. Especially if its just got a background on it lol

[317]

Based off of the 2001 KX, first real attempt in making my own plastics. Don't look at the frame too much or your eyes may fall out. All criticism welcome please

Yes! I have a '99 KX250, (plastics from '99-02" were the same). But I've wanted that style of plastics for a long time! Hope you release it man!

[m121c]

Really good for your first go on plastics, they are tough! I can see you have an understanding of how the models work (i.e. no floating vertices, gaps, etc.) here is something I quickly drew up as an example for future reference.



I usually like to start out in photoshop visualization how I want the wireframe to be, it helps to really study the curves and edges of the plastics, trace them out, and then evenly and thoughtfully start to link it all together. This helps with flow and poly count, usually when thought out before modeling, you end up saving some polygons and avoiding triangles. Then put into the 3D software and model of it, 90% the drawing isn't perfect but it really helps.

My critisism:

1. I think the 3 edges the go horizontal from the the side plate all the way up to the front of the shroud are a bit overkill. Although they are no an issue, It's always good to utilize every polygon in the desired shape, polygons/edges that don't help the actually shape of the plastics are just what they sound like (a waste to be blunt). Although you will always have a handful of wasteful polygons just out of spite of trying to accomplish a good polygon flow, just try to make everything polygon count. When you are making a full bike, you would be surprised how quickly the polygons add up. See the game engines don't calculate them as polygons they break them into triangles, so when you have a 2k poly model it's double that in game.

So as I said those 3 edges create a lot of polygons that aren't really being used for any shape, the knee area of the shroud in particular.

2. I can tell you from experience that your hole in the side plate with not work to well for a high poly model it will just yield a weird result. Everything needs to be connected. If there is a polygon with more than 4 sides it will only be a headache for you.


Some tips and advice:

1. Keep in my mind, the high poly can be used for a extensive amount of detail on the surface of the plastic, it's crazy the difference between the low poly and high poly can be and still get some really cool results.
2. Quads, quads, quads. Try to avoid triangles as much as possible and anything over 4 sides is also frowned on. Although 99% of the time triangles are impossible to avoid in a low poly game model, but you want to avoid them at all costs for a high poly, they just cause pinching and a weird flow in the polygons.
3. I can already tell you have the the idea of polygon flow, which is great, keep that up and just keep trying to make everything smooth and flow it will only help with everything else down the line.
4. Don't like it? Do it again! I modeled my Honda plastic 5-6 times before I was satisfied enough to call it done and I would tweak it from time to time until I finally got sick of looking at it. Each try will only help you and you will learn a lot.
5. Like I said, drawing out the wire frame is a neat trick that really helps. At least it does for me.
6. It's impossible but always try to make the polygons evenly spaced, same angle, same direction, and relative in size to each other. If they go from big polygons to smaller polygons with tighter edges, try to make everything even and smooth in between the 2 points.

Great start dude! As I said from the start, really good for your first real go at it. Sorry for the long reply, I just like to see when people post wire frames for criticism out of the interest of getting better and improving their work, and not just to show off an upcoming model for the forum cred. Anyways hope I shed some helpful advice and crit.

[Zacheychan]

Download for that bike???

[Beast2013]

Been working on this for a bit. I re-textured ExtremeManiac's pc ti-6 pipe that came with his Yami a while ago. Let me know what you think!

(did want to put "no rip" on it, but think I know this community well enough now )

[yzmxer608]

For the end cap, why did you put a split in the carbon on the top?